DRESS
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DRESS
DRESS is the multidisciplinary, trans-seasonal label/practice of designer Julie Wilkins. Limited edition, story telling capsule collections of garments, words, images.


CRISIS CAPSULE 01: 
WHAT’S MY JOB NOW? 
Adaptive work & function wear

Survivalist/ De-constructor/ Worker/ Shape-shifter. 
Androgynous Daily Separates

 
 

WHAT’S MY JOB NOW?  Split Overall Set

 

1)Split & feminised Overall set
Natural Loom State Cotton Drill

 

 

06) Inter-dependent T/ White

Each T shirt in the combined garment can be worn as lead garment (by choosing different head and arm holes) as the other T adapts to drape around it.
 

07) Co-dependent T/ Black

2 T shirts cut together so they cannot be separated, only rotated for alternative use of head and arm hole, to create different shapes. 

04) Adapted Combat Trousers, Half Overall Trousers

 
 

03) Scavenged Hoodie
Herringbone Chambray/end of line fabric referencing vintage American workwear

 
 
   
  
 
  
    
  
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     05) The Re-assigned Ralph   Classic stripe City worker’s shirt, given extra collar button/holes and double openings/button/hole stands to allow multiple rotations and possibilities of wear. This person can never work in an office again.

05) The Re-assigned Ralph

Classic stripe City worker’s shirt, given extra collar button/holes and double openings/button/hole stands to allow multiple rotations and possibilities of wear. This person can never work in an office again.

 
 

06) Inter-dependent T/ Grey

 
 
 

C) RECONFIGURED KNITWEAR
Panels from various knit samples collated into wearable conceptual items with inbuilt freedoms of use.  

10) In-built Twin/ Navy

10) In-built Twin/ Navy - variation 1

 

10) In-built Twin/ Navy - variation 2

 
 

C) RECONFIGURED KNITWEAR
09) Escape your/Polo Neck - 
Grey Marl

Can be worn long sleeved or sleeveless

C) RECONFIGURED KNITWEAR
08) Double Open High Polo Cardigan. Multiple rotations.

C) RECONFIGURED KNITWEAR

08) Double Open High Polo Cardigan

04) Adapted Combat Trousers

 

CRISIS CAPSU­LE 02: 
SOME SENSE OF STRUCTURE

The habit of taking apart, rotating and de-constructing things - of never settling on a form, of continual questioning - does not make for a stable life...DRESS forms dissected

 

 

DRESS set 03 - Stage 02: Long Sleeves form a Bow

 

CRISIS CAPSU­LE 02: 
A) 10 METRES EACH/ NAVY PRINT SERIES­

The series is made using 10m each of two end of line remnant print fabrics in Navy/White. 5 styles/sets, designs limited by total fabric available.

 

 

 

04) Broken Dress Jacket

Dress Jacket with hinged, escapable, sleeves and raw pleated peplum, made from the remnants left after all other dress part had been cut.

 

 

 

 

 

05) Inside-out Over-sized Emerging/disappearing Structure Skirt                       

Skirt outline drawn onto one continuous piece of fabric, folded in half with hole cut for waist. Part unfinished, raw edged and using normally discarded fabric selvedge.

Classic short sleeve, soft-tailored dress up-scaled to one size fits all proportion, for universal wear-ability. Dresses are all collapse-able and come in sets with supporting add-ons (sleeves, additional panels). The stages of collapse and interplay of panels and parts allow for multiple variations of wear, giving each dress several identities.

 

02) Inside-out Oversize Collapsing Dress/Set           

Dress set made using reverse of fabric with all French seams and dart detail to outside. 2 part set, Dress and Shoulder panel with Sleeve, allows for 3 stages/variations

 
 

03) Emerging/disappearing Structure Dress/Set                       

Dress drawn onto and cut from one continuous piece of fabric folded in half, with head hole, darts and surface side seams added. Unfinished raw & selvedge edged.

Long Sleeves are stitched onto the front surface at sleeve head only, allowing dress to be worn sleevelessly or long sleeved.

Dress set includes extra set of high gathered sleeves, based on the shape of a left over skirt panel, allowing it to go through 3 stages of wear/identity.

Dress 03: Stage 0/1 Long Sleeves can be worn or left to hang/sleeveless

 

Dress 03: Stage 1

 
 

Dress Set 03 - Stage 02

DRESS set 03 - Stage 02: Long Sleeves form a Bow

 

DRESS 03: Stage 3, Long Sleeves form a Bow, Second Set of Sleeve are added with poppers

 

Dress 03: Stage 3

 
 

DRESS 01) Over-size Collapsing Dress Set                       

Dress set includes extra Shoulder/Sleeve panel and separate set of long sleeves. 4 part set, allows for 3/4 stages/variations.

 

Dress set 01: Stage 1

Dress set 01: variation

Dress set 01: variation

 
 

CRISIS CAPSU­LE 02: 
SOME SENSE OF STRUCTURE

In a crisis why do we cling to the habitual modes that may have caused the crisis in the first place?   

 

B) THE 10 METRES OF NAVY POLYESTER EXPERIMENT

Nostalgia for the traditional dress form as touchstone to gender, identity and security. Navy Blue as the Pink of England. Home sewing. Pattern cutting 101: going back to formal basics in order to subvert them. 

A classic, fitted short sleeve soft-tailored dress with pencil skirt, collapses and twists and is supported by a replica of itself. Divisions and variations thereof. Series made using 10 metres of remnant polyester jersey. 4 Designs, limited by total fabric available.

 

 

 

1) Crisis/Support Dress

 
 

02) Collapse/Support Bodice, 03) Oversize Split Dress Skirt

1. Crisis/Support Dress